created by: ks_cacti
Posted on r/peyote in January 2022, by u/lopho_lover in the thread Lophophora Willamsii growing guide. Could be used for other Lophophora as well
The original post has been cleaned up with non-material edits to make it easier to read here.
Dear Reader,
As a passionate Lophophora williamsii (Peyote) caretaker, it's essential to understand the proper care requirements for this special cactus. On my journey of learning, I’ve found different (economically friendly) planting mixes, additives, and fertilizers that will optimize their growth. Additionally, I have researched the amount of light needed and the watering frequency that they thrive best in. Everything you need to know is included in this guide.
I open with a response to an email I wrote to the Peyote Way Church in Arizona after reading information they posted on their website about growing this special cactus. In their response, they give me clear instructions for planting and growing. They are my primary source for growing tips as they have been growing Peyote since the late 70s and have extensive experience with different planting mixes and nutrients to use, making them an expert in the field.
My intention is to provide passionate Peyote caretakers with detailed information and instructions so that our medicine can not only grow but also flourish and thrive, ensuring an abundance of healthy medicine for future generations. I hope you benefit from this growing guide as much as I have.
Happy growing, family!
-Steven
Straight from the horse's mouth (I reached out to the Peyote Way Church after reading information posted on their website, and this is what they wrote):
There are so many ways to plant Peyote, and unless your plants are distressed, you may have a very good [planting] mix going. I also want to remind you of the unfortunate problem of insect infestation [that can be present in high-humidity areas]. I have seen plants grow very well in black gold organic planting mix, but I have become fond of a crunchier blend of horticultural-grade pumice and black lava rock with some excellent amendments. I have had issues with almost all the organic products I have tried (the black gold, organic compost, and worm castings). Our “cactus master,” Alex, who has since left, was experimenting with coconut coir (Peyote didn't seem to like it – too like Peat moss), organic rice hulls (not bad), and black gold/organic compost. Ultimately, as earlier stated, the pumice/lava mix is very reliable for good drainage. We add greensand, neem meal, alfalfa meal, azomite, phosphate or hi-phosphate bat guano, and humic acid granules. Organic bone meal is highly recommended, but as a vegetarian, I prefer not to use animal products. We do water in high nutrient mixes regularly using kelp fertilizer as opposed to fish fertilizer.
If you were on a limited budget or just don't need so many items, I would get a pumice and black lava rock mix, phosphate rock, and add hi-phosphate bat guano, greensand, and humic acid granules. Then I would use Kelp foliar spray to fertilize. Water infrequently during the winter, then once or twice a week during the other three seasons. (Remember to use filtered water or rainwater.) Your less healthy plants might get a boost from a spray of SUPERthrive or organic thrive.
Lophophora is a spineless, button-like cactus native to the southwestern United States, through Northeast Mexico, and South to Querétaro in central Mexico. Lophophora comprises four species: L. diffusa, L. fricii, L. viridescens, and L. williamsii. Lophophora williamsii, commonly known as Peyote, is noted for its psychotropic alkaloids. These alkaloids are absent or only found in extremely small amounts in the other species.
The L. williamsii species is very resilient and easily adapts to cultivation. Although a cactus, it is found within a subtropical climate for some portion of the year. In its natural habitat, plants like Peyote are subject to seasonal monsoons, and the plants live in areas where they may be underwater for several weeks during heavy rains and can tolerate a lot of water when the temperatures are above 100 °F (38 °C). These plants are heat-adapted and grow rapidly when exposed to temperatures of 110 to 120 °F (43 to 49 °C) and watered heavily in the summer. Plants from areas that experience seasonal monsoons and high temperatures, such as southern Texas, can reach flowering size in just five years. During the fall and winter months, the plants receive almost no water in their habitat and are subjected to temperatures that can drop somewhat below 20 °F (−7 °C) during the winter.
The plants should not be watered during the winter rest (when they are dormant) or watered sparingly when they begin to shrink and wrinkle, only enough to keep them full, plump, and hard to the touch. Lophophora plants must be kept completely dry if they are subjected to temperatures below 40 °F (4 °C), as watering plants and subjecting them to temperatures below freezing will typically result in the death of the plant. If growing outside, it’s recommended to bring plants inside if the temperature drops below 50 °F (10 °C) (but not necessary). When keeping Peyote in warmer climates (or inside during the winter), continue to water regularly, as the cactus will not go dormant and will continue to grow.
When grown in the wild, Lophophora develops an extensive taproot system, with most of the plant’s mass below ground for water storage. Lophophora is more tolerant of soil types than its relatives and typically grows in areas that have decomposed limestone present in the soil. When cultivating, Lophophora does best in a fast-draining mineral-based planting mix, which is about two-thirds or more pumice. Abundant water is beneficial in the summer months when temperatures exceed 90° F (32° C), and in indirect sunlight with about an hour or two of supervised sunlight per day for maximum growth. It must be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. They should also be fertilized every two weeks. You may also fertilize with every watering if your solution is significantly diluted. Over-fertilizing will typically result in the Lophophora developing cracks and splitting. This will heal over time, but it will stunt the cactus's growth because the plant's energy will be used to heal the wound.
Lophophora are free-flowering in cultivation, and although they can withstand low temperatures during winter, they do not require a cold shock to initiate flowering. Plants in their natural habitat typically flower after rainstorms, which have been preceded by a period of high temperatures and dry conditions. Plants in cultivation can be encouraged to flower by subjecting the plants to high temperatures, direct sunlight, and withholding water for several weeks, then watering heavily, which will usually initiate flowering.
It’s recommended to have a variety of rock mixtures because each stone type releases different minerals for the buttons to use. A well-draining planting mixture of mostly pumice, small parts of lava rock, greensand, and phosphate rock works well. Avoid using “fines” or very small sand particles, which can impede drainage. The planting mix mentioned provides perfect drainage, so water doesn’t sit; these stones are porous and hold just enough moisture for the Peyote to be happy. Because water doesn't sit, it improves root growth as it forces the plant to stretch out roots searching for water. When preparing the planting mix, remember to add the nutrients and minerals found in Nutrients and Minerals when Planting.
Mix everything well, adding a bit of water when mixing helps the additives stick to the pumice and spread evenly. Now you're ready to plant!
The Peyote Way Church recommends avoiding regular soil, “cactus mixes,” and all organic matter like compost or worm castings, as they have significantly experimented with these additives and frequently experienced issues. If the planting mix stays wet for too long, it can cause root rot. Always remember to wait until the soil mix dries out before watering (with the suggested planting mix in this guide, it should dry in just a few days). These are estimates of volume for planting mixtures based on your container size:
Peyote likes to be planted close together, and when planting solo, make sure there is only a half-inch to an inch space between the button and the edge of the pot. Planting it in a larger pot will not be helpful for the Peyote; they like company. When handling, please don't touch them too much. It is said that Peyote is sensitive to the oils from our skin; use gloves or wash your hands well before beginning your work.
In their natural environment, Peyote can tolerate large amounts of water and is subject to monsoons during the summer; the rest of the year, it receives almost no rain and only receives a little dew in the morning. The cold night and hot days create moisture, and a light dew is left on the skin of the Peyote in the early morning. They absorb the water through their skin, giving it a little drink and enough moisture to be happy. This is why I mist my Peyote almost every morning.
In the growing season (spring, summer, fall), water your plants once to twice a week regularly (use enough water to saturate the entire mixture, and until water drains out the bottom hole). It is very important to use filtered water or rainwater. The rocky soil mix of pumice, lava rock, and phosphate rock allows water to drain properly and not sit. An overly moist soil mix can cause root rot. Also, add a light Kelp/Fish fertilizer every two weeks when watering. Your watering frequency will be dependent on three factors: the intensity of light provided, the temperature where the Peyote is kept, and the humidity level. These factors will govern the evaporation of water to a certain extent. Plants should not be watered again until the soil mix has stayed dry for a couple of days (with the suggested planting mix in this guide, it should dry in a few days). If plants need a drink, they become a little softer when you give them a little squeeze. A day or two after plants have had a good drink, they get nice and firm to the touch.
In the desert, Peyote usually grows under small bushes, protecting them from the intensity of the noonday sun. Peyote likes indirect sunlight. If growing inside: Place your cactus in a north-facing window and no more than an hour of supervised direct sunlight per day. Morning and evening rays are preferable due to their lower intensity. If you do not have access to a north-facing window, do not fear! Any window will work if it is in indirect sunlight. Too much direct sunlight can burn the Peyote. If it receives too much sun and burns, you will know. If this happens, don’t worry, it will heal itself over time.
Here you will find a detailed list of the suggested nutrients and minerals with amounts to use. These are added to the planting mixture before planting the buttons. The following minerals give the Peyote a well-rounded diet, ensuring they have everything it needs to flourish.
It's good to lightly fertilize your Peyote using kelp/fish fertilizer once every two weeks. If the solution is very diluted, you can fertilize with every watering. For buttons that look like they need some help, use SUPERthrive as described below and lightly mist them once a month. Below are the recommended mixtures for application.
In habitat, Peyote takes up to 30 years to grow to the size of a golf ball and produce its first flowers. Cultivated plants grow considerably faster, taking less than three years to mature from a seedling to a flowering adult. This is because they are grown in a controlled environment with regular watering and nutrients as described in this guide.
A few days after flowering, the pollinated flower produces a tiny club-shaped pink berry, about ½”- 1” long. Let the pods ripen and dry, as they are the source of seeds. Flowers need to be pollinated to produce seeds. They are naturally self-pollinating, but this process can be assisted by manually pollinating the flower with a small, clean paintbrush. Assisting this process increases your chances of getting seeds and the quantity of seeds. It’s easy to do, and you can find videos online that show you in detail how to do this. Keep track of these fruits because as they dry and shrivel, they can become lost among the central white fuzzy tufts. Carefully remove the dried fruit pod from the plant and allow the pods to dry in a shady, warm, dry place. Once the pods are completely dry, gently crush the dried seed pod between the thumb and index finger to release the seeds. Carefully remove the small, round seeds from the pod and store them in a brown paper envelope. Please pay attention, as they can roll away effortlessly.
Be aware, ants will steal Peyote seeds, and they must be kept out of the growing beds. Seeds may lie dormant for years and remain viable if they are kept dry and away from light. However, fresh seeds are more likely to be vital and should be planted as soon as proper conditions are available.
Seed germination success is affected by seed vitality, moisture, temperature, planting mix, and light. Seedlings grow most rapidly when enclosed in a sealed terrarium environment. They are germinated in shallow trays of moist planting mix (1 part small pumice, 1 part small lava rock, 1 part tiny calcium carbonate/limestone pebbles) covered with plastic wrap, and several small pin-sized holes in the plastic wrapping. This may seem strange for a cactus, but Lophophora seedlings are adapted to germinate and grow during the seasonal monsoons. Plants grown this way can reach a diameter of 2 inches (5 cm) in just over a year. They can be removed from their hyper-humid environment (removing plastic wrapping) approximately two months after germination. They will typically reach flowering size in just under three years via this method.
Unless you are growing from seed, refer to the following: Peyote is harvested by cutting the button from the taproot system. Be sure to leave a slanted cut so water doesn't collect on top and cause it to rot. This allows the root system to regrow new plants from the top. If you find one in the wild, please do not pull up the entire root system, as this is one reason why Peyote is on the endangered species list.
Now, with growing Peyote from cuttings, there are some essential things to remember. Before planting your fresh button, make sure the cut is completely dry. If the cut site is still moist to the touch when planted, the button could start to rot before it can grow new roots—having a good callus where the cut was made seals the button, protecting it. If the cut is still moist, place it on brown paper with the cut facing up, and near a window with some light so that it will dry and the wound will heal. Once the wound heals, you’re all set for planting. To plant Peyote cuttings, prepare the recommended planting mix (as stated in this guide in Planting Peyote and Potting Mixtures). Then, place the buttons on top of the mix and sprinkle a little pumice around each button, ensuring just a small amount is below the surface of the mix. Easy-peasy.
Initially, humidity is crucial, and maintaining a humid environment is important. Not watering the planting mix of newly planted buttons is very important. You should simulate a humid environment by misting the skin regularly or placing planters in the bathroom while bathing or showering. You could also build a small humid box with grow lights to plant them in. People see tremendous growth in their plants when they do that, but it is not necessary. Keep the newly planted buttons in this highly humid environment until the Peyote shows signs of growth and looks full and plump, or until they start shooting out roots. Some of mine took about 9 months to begin to plump up. Once they show signs of growth, you can start watering regularly, but remember, there is no rush to water.
When growing Peyote from cuttings, you won't need to replant them for about 3 years from the initial planting. After 3 years, follow the directions here to replant. This is for plants grown from seed that have a sound root system. Plants commonly use up nutrients in the soil after about a year or so of being in a pot (this is not true when growing Peyote from cuttings due to the button's short, new roots). To replenish this plant's nutrients, repot your Peyote after it doubles in size or once a year—whichever comes first.
Peyote babies and established plants both transplant well. To replant, gently work the soil around the button. You can use a chopstick to loosen the soil, exposing all the roots, then pull out with care. Re-pot in the spring when the weather warms up, never when they are dormant during the winter. If you don’t want your Peyote to go dormant, bring them inside during the winter or if the temperature goes below 50 °F (10 °C). Established plants can be planted in wet or dry planting mix; babies should be planted in a wet planting mix. Always check how your Lophophora adapts to any change; if it doesn’t like it, you will quickly notice as its shape will change (shrink, become squishy to the touch). Be careful and act before it is too late.
Always remember that if your plants start to decline with no apparent cause (too much sun, too much watering, etc.) the problem may be insects. We use a neem spray for plants; 70% neem by Southern AG or Monterey. For thrips, we use Spinosad. Follow the directions on the package carefully. Hopefully, as your garden is small, you won't immediately have insect problems, but we have found that insects proliferate in high humidity. At times, some varieties of Lophophora will develop a corky material on the plant body if exposed to pesticides or insecticidal soap. This corky condition will usually heal in a manner very similar to human skin if the plants are exposed to some sunlight.
Root rot can happen, and it's essential to act quickly to save what you can of the plant. One reason root rot can happen is an overly moist planting mix for an extended period. There could be other reasons why, but I'm not sure. I am still learning. The following explains what to do if you find root rot: First, prepare yourself for surgery, and ensure that your blade is sterilized using rubbing alcohol. Begin to remove all unaffected buttons using the knife. Be sure to cut away all root rot. The buttons removed can then be replanted and will grow new roots. For replanting instructions, refer to Growing Peyote from Cuttings.