Bipolaris

Examples of early stage:

Examples of late stage:

Bipolaris manifests physically at the tip of columns in the following stages:

• Initial Stage: When it first presents, the epidermis color of the affected area turns deep purple without a raised blister, and can have weeping black ooze.
• Progression: As the infection runs its course or dries out, the affected tissue turns deep black, crusts over, and begins to sporulate.
• Growth Arrest: The tip is typically destroyed or severely damaged, leading to a terminated tip. If the plant survives, it walls off the infection, resulting in a scarred apex from which pups may eventually emerge, or not.

Bipolaris is caused by the fungal pathogen Bipolaris cactivora. It is active in warm, humid summer weather with cycles of wet and dry soil. Outbreaks are also associated with seasonal transitions, high rainfall, and sudden cold snaps. It is often confused with other top-down fungal pathogens like Fusarium proliferatum and Neocosmospora, or bacterial wet rot (such as Erwinia carotovora).

• Environmental Management: Avoid excessive watering during cold snaps and seasonal transitions.
• Soil & Nutrition: Ensure proper soil pH and nutrient balance. Hindered nitrogen, potassium, and calcium availability (often caused by pH imbalances or excess of other nutrients) can weaken the plant's defenses. Some growers apply dolomite lime (raises soil pH) or gypsum and epsom salts as part of a winter routine.
• Chemical Treatment:
• Phosphorous Acid (Phos Acid): Highly recommended as a preventative and active treatment. For active infections, spray directly on the wound. Some users suggest using up to three times the recommended dose for virulent cases, applying repeatedly until the infection dries, crusts, and turns grey.
• Propiconazole: Recommended by community authority Gee Bee, though she notes that true Bipolaris may not respond to it, requiring physical removal. Note: Propiconazole is not safe for edible plants (labeled for turf and ornamentals).
• Sulfur Powder: Generally ineffective at stopping systemic or active outbreaks, as the rot may reappear elsewhere.
• Physical Intervention (Chopping): If chemical treatments fail or the rot continues to spread down the ribs, cleanly chop the infected tip. Deciding to chop immediately versus “letting it ride” is a common dilemma; some plants successfully throw off the infection and offset naturally, while others will rot entirely if not amputated early.